Shipment of the first 6 of 8 speakers arrived in good condition all the way from Florida.

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First order of business was to get a wire harness together with a 12 volt power supply that would allow the speaker to be deployed with the flick of a switch!

In these images you can see the warp in the speaker housing.

Some people would just live with this, but the crooked lines would bother me every time I looked at them and I just had to improve the situation.

Here is a closeup of the warp!

A closeup of the problem in the corner of the speaker

I decided that I could use some flat head screws to suck the warped edges in towards the speaker baffle by drilling a countersunk hole through the speaker can and the speaker baffle. Installing

6-32 flat head screws and carefully torquing them in order to bring the speaker can into alignment with clearance between the bezel.

Here you can see the Solid Works model of the mock up speaker can and the speaker baffle as well as the drilling fixture installed on the speaker can.

I decided that I could use some flat head screws to suck the warped edges in towards the speaker baffle by drilling a countersunk hole through the speaker can and the speaker baffle. Installing

6-32 flat head screws and carefully torquing them in order to bring the speaker can into alignment with clearance between the bezel.

Here you can see the Solid Works model of the mock up speaker can and the speaker baffle as well as the drilling fixture installed on the speaker can.

I decided that I could use some flat head screws to suck the warped edges in towards the speaker baffle by drilling a countersunk hole through the speaker can and the speaker baffle. Installing

6-32 flat head screws and carefully torquing them in order to bring the speaker can into alignment with clearance between the bezel.

Here you can see the Solid Works model of the mock up speaker can and the speaker baffle as well as the drilling fixture installed on the speaker can.

Actual pictures of the drill guide installed on the speaker can. You can see how it keys onto the flange around the edge of the speaker can. I used a wide rubber band with hooks on both ends to hold the drill guide in place while drilling the holes.

Actual pictures of the drill guide installed on the speaker can. You can see how it keys onto the flange around the edge of the speaker can. I used a wide rubber band with hooks on both ends to hold the drill guide in place while drilling the holes.

Actual pictures of the drill guide installed on the speaker can. You can see how it keys onto the flange around the edge of the speaker can. I used a wide rubber band with hooks on both ends to hold the drill guide in place while drilling the holes.

I originally planned on using actual 3/16 OD x .1065 drill guides but the $13.00 + price tag x 9pcs led me to 3d printing some drill guides in SLS Nylon. I made 3 different types and ended up using the shorter bushings with straight sidewalls as they fit the FDM Drill template well and provided ample clearance between the speaker can and the drill bushing allowing the chips to accumulate inside the drill guide holes when drilling.

You can see the SLS 3d printed basket that contained the arrayed drill bushings in several layers inside the basket keeping them all together to ease post build processing (cleaning the un- sintered powder off the sintered parts) .

You can also see the 3 different types of bushings I printed: short, long, and long with relieved sides (in case they were a really tight fit in the drill guide).

This is a closeup of the keying action between the speaker can flange and the drill guide.

This is a closeup of the keying action between the speaker can flange and the drill guide.

This is a closeup of the keying action between the speaker can flange and the drill guide.

And last but not least here are the modified speakers and you can see that the appearance is greatly improved as most of the warp is gone.

And last but not least here are the modified speakers and you can see that the appearance is greatly improved as most of the warp is gone.

And last but not least here are the modified speakers and you can see that the appearance is greatly improved as most of the warp is gone.

In these pictures ou can see the addition of the 9 screws that are used to remove the warp in te speaker can.

I may either paint the screws or find some vinyl adhesive discs in the same color as the speaker plastic to cover them up.

Here are some extra images of the back side of the grill and the back of the motorized speaker from different angles.